MILAN — The men’s pack is preparing for a new season which kicks off just after the holidays at Pitti Uomo in Florence and then in Milan, where the men’s fashion week will take place from January 13 to 17.
The long fashion weekend will feature 72 events, including 21 shows and 31 presentations, and it’s set to be a season of confirmations and some fashionable additions to the city.
The most notable addition is Gucci, which will open the season on January 13 with a live show at 2 p.m. CET.
The luxury brand will present its first standalone menswear collection after three years of mixed shows, and the first range since the sudden departure last month of Alessandro Michele. The show is expected to be a design team effort, as the brand has yet to name a new creative director.
Other brands on the Milan calendar in January include JW Anderson, 1017 Alyx 9SM and Jordanluca, all of which have decamped to the city in recent years. A new addition from the international scene is Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, who has attended Milan Fashion Week twice in the past, with an event and a digital show in January 2020 and last June, respectively, but is hosting his first show physical this season on January 1st. 15.
Other new brands joining the calendar for the first time include Carlo Sestini’s eyewear brand Sestini; chic shoe specialist Charles Philip; Valstar, a famous outerwear player credited with manufacturing the first waterproof jacket in 1911; streetwear actors Luter, who celebrated his 20e anniversary in 2022, and Bonsai.
A few events are sure to add extra buzz to men’s week. Outerwear specialist Colmar celebrates its 100th anniversary by unveiling a new – as yet undisclosed – collaboration for its luxury line Colmar Revolution, while Marni celebrates the spring 2023 abandonment of its tie-up with Carhartt WIP with a cocktail in store.
Capping physical shows that include Prada, Etro’s first menswear effort by Marco De Vincenzo and Giorgio Armani, among others, is Zegna, which presents its men’s Fall 2023 collection at an as-yet-undisclosed location on January 16. The final day, Jan .17, will consist of digital broadcasts and presentations only.
Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, praised the close collaboration with Pitti Immagine, describing it as an asset to the country’s fashion, particularly in menswear.
“We have always been able to present the best fashion content to the world, packaged in the best possible way, between Florence and Milan. I am really convinced that the two cities are a single entity showing how good the Italians are [in fashion] through two different souls,” he said.
“We are really close and our relationship is fundamental; we have a responsibility to the industry, especially in menswear,” echoed Raffaello Napoleone, Managing Director of Pitti Immagine.
Supported by a solid performance, including in menswear, Italian fashion is on track to reach a turnover of 96.6 billion euros this year, up 16% compared to 2021. It exceeds previous estimates of a 12% year-over-year increase.
Although inflation is helping to fuel revenue growth, Capasa explained that prices for end products have only increased by 3%, meaning the 16% gain in sales in 2022 must be attributed to growing volumes. fashion items sold.
The United States was confirmed as the strongest market for the sector, with exports soaring 54.1% in the first nine months of the year. This compares with weaker-than-expected growth in Chinese exports, which rose 18.8%.
“We are unable to forecast for 2023 as there are too many variables in play and volatility in the market,” Capasa said, citing the ongoing war in Ukraine.
The executive also revealed that the Camera Moda Fashion Trust has launched applications for the 2023 edition of its grant, the first open also to menswear and asexual fashion brands. The three winning brands will each receive 40,000 euros in funding, while a fourth winner will receive 15,000 euros from Max&Co.
Capasa also said the fashion governing body has partnered with Salesforce and DiRe, an association combating violence against women, for the Empowering Women in Fashion Retail mentorship program, aimed at women wishing to start a career in fashion. Additionally, in March, the Fashion Council will host its inaugural “Changemakers in Luxury Fashion” panel discussion inviting representatives from the fashion industry.