Dior’s Peter Philips talks about the future of makeup – WWD

Nearly a decade into his tenure as Creative and Image Director of Parfums Christian Dior, Peter Philips thinks the sky’s the limit for makeup.

“The biggest makeup trend is makeup itself,” Philips said. “It’s going in all sorts of directions…it’s so popular right now in all of its shades and formulas, from very bare and almost intellectual to very expressive and bold.”

The clientele of Dior make-up has also grown. “Anything is possible, and this is a huge step forward. There are no more barriers, it’s not just gendered, whatever you want to call it, everyone can have access to makeup and everyone can wear makeup,” he said.

This reflects major market trends. Makeup sales surpassed pre-pandemic levels in the third quarter, hitting $2.1 billion, as lip sales jumped 32% in sales growth, according to data from NPD Group.

The launch of Dior Lips for 2022 embodies the Philips imperative – to meet demand, respond to current trends and embrace Dior’s heritage. “Our Lip Maximizer project, where we combine the best of two worlds: Dior Addict and the popular Maximizer line,” he said. “They’ve been reunited, so it’s now our Lip Maximizer with caring and plumping benefits.”

This range, officially dubbed Dior Addict Lip Maximizer, will launch in January with 31 shades in four finishes, priced at $40.

“It fits perfectly with the revival of looks from the late 90s and 2000s, when lip gloss was huge,” he added.

In terms of eye and complexion products, change is also underway. The brand is introducing a redesign of the 30-shade concealer in glass packaging – aiming to be easier to recycle than plastic tubes – and these formulas feature a higher concentration of naturally-derived ingredients, reaching 96%. These, called Dior Forever Skin Correct Concealers, are priced at $38 each. This all ties in with Philips’ aim to address broader consumer concerns around formulations and sustainability.

“There’s a big responsibility when you’re a global beauty brand like ours,” Philips said. “When we launched the previous Rouge Dior, we introduced the concept of refilling by using recycled materials in our paper packaging, recycled paper, less film printing and less plastic sheeting – all small gestures that have a huge impact on the amount we produce.”

Likewise, Dior has introduced a new database where consumers can see what ingredients are used in each product and how they are purchased.

“The battle is not just about setting trends and creating fun colors, but everything around it is as important as the product itself,” Philips said. “It’s about being rational, being persistent and getting all those ideals across. Alongside that, I have my creative side and my passion as a makeup artist, my passion for trying to deliver great shades and great formulas.

Making changes on a large scale is not Philips’ easiest mandate. “If you look at the size we have, it’s like moving a mountain because you have to change the whole structure of a factory, just because it’s a huge amount. It takes huge teamwork,” he said. “But honestly the pandemic has helped because people have become more aware. We have taken small steps, and now we are taking bigger steps.

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