In a year filled with a myriad of launches, these stood out in terms of innovation, imagination and, of course, sales.
Product of the year
Hair: K18 Biomimetics Hairscience
Combine beauty’s hottest driver – biotech – with the industry’s social media sensation, TikTok, and the results are stratospheric. Such is the trajectory of K18 Biomimetic Hairscience, created by industry veterans Britta Cox and Suveen Sahib. To develop the product, the team mapped the keratin genome, “to determine the sequence that can actually repair the polypeptide chains in hair,” Sahib told Beauty Inc, explaining that unlike bond-building technology , K18 acts on the keratin chains of the hair structure to “really reconnect the polypeptide chains”. Although the science is complex, consumers have certainly understood the results when they have used the product, buying bottles despite the high price of $29 for a 0.50 ounce bottle; sales for 2022 are expected to exceed $100 million. Numbers like that prompted inevitable comparisons with Olaplex, another disruptive player in the hair space. And although they are competitors, Sahib doesn’t care. “They are the ones who built the link building category, it didn’t exist before that,” he said. “For us, it’s about creating synthetic biology as the next category – we see that impact in hair, skincare, cosmetics, everything.”
To put on makeup: Nars Advanced Skincare Reflective Foundation
Makeup skinification was one of the top trends of 2022, and the Nars Light Reflecting Advanced Skincare Foundation nailed it. The medium-coverage foundation, which launched in 36 shades, claims to even out skin tone over time and defend against environmental aggressors and blue light. Introduced in February, the product also represents parent company Shiseido’s broader ambitions to be the world’s leading skincare beauty company. Light Reflecting Foundation grew out of ideas the team gleaned globally and formulated as a collaboration between Shiseido’s Global Innovation Center in Yokohama, Japan, and the Americas Innovation Center in the United States. The strategy paid off: Nars Light Reflecting Foundation is the biggest launch in the brand’s history, with sales reportedly double the original forecast.
Skin care: Trinny London Skincare
Trinny Woodall’s fame may be that of the ultimate fashion whisperer, but when it comes to beauty, she’s proven to be a natural. His eponymous brand, launched in 2017, caused a stir around the world, with estimated sales of over £45m and the company hitting profitability by the end of 2020, thanks to a digital-first community approach that appeals to everyone , whether they are 18 or 80 years old. In February, Woodall capitalized on its brand’s acceleration by launching skincare, starting with cleansers and quickly expanding to a full line of ingredient-rich serums, moisturizers and exfoliators. . Coupled with an expanded distribution strategy that included pop-ups in Australia, the UK and Canada, as well as a launch at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, the brands are expected to clean up this year, with sales expected nearly £100 million.
Fragrance: Dries Van Noten Eau de Parfum
Dries Van Noten is known for his use of quirky prints, colors, fabrics and layering in his ready-to-wear, and when it came time to create his first fragrance collection, the Belgian designer followed a path similar. The family of 10 fragrances, which Van Noten designed with its parent company Puig, is a riot of colors, scents and textures. “To me, something perfectly beautiful is boring,” Van Noten said at the launch. A passionate gardener who says he likes to take risks in his plantations, Van Noten aspired to create unusual and unexpected olfactory combinations, such as with Voodoo Chile, with notes of rosemary and patchouli, or Soie Malaquais, with notes of chestnut and vanilla. All fragrances contain at least 85% natural ingredients, and the apothecary-style bottles, each with a unique design, are made from responsibly sourced, recyclable materials. In a fantastic year for fragrance as a whole, Les Eaux stood out by bringing a new level of originality to the designer market.